a typewriter in the ocean

I write on a typewriter & live off Apples

my arms are so sore, I almost didn’t want to see this tonight. then I paddled out. #hypeyourlocalwavesoitgetsreallyreallycrowdedbecausecrowdsarecool
south swell secret spot sliding with @joshharper56 // #shhhhhhhh
forget about the cliche behind, this one’s all about the summer sunday slide
sickens me to get out of the water and see a beach covered in trash - this isn’t even half of what Benny and I scooped up this morning at Swamis - as humans we have a basic responsibility to care for Mother Nature, as surfers that responsibility is increased tenfold - if you see trash, pick it up; and if you see the idiot that left it there, give him or her an earful - lastly, notice all of the trash is one-use plastics, pathetic! || #responsiblesurfing #cleanthebeach #plasticiscrap
the best sessions are the ones you expect the least from - the tide is funky, the swell is minimal, the wind is directionless - and all of the sudden your good buddy paddles out, the wind calms down and the lines extend || never forget, #lifesagroovything
happy birthday AI || #aiforever
as fast as she is sexy | thanks @campbellbros
always good to respect the elders, they are the locals and might have a thing or two to teach you. this is Finn, he’s a shaper/surfer/local/elder/glasser/soon to be father and has taught me a lot about loggin’ in the last year. truly feel lucky to know him and have his ear when we share the lineup. #respectthelocals
the legend better known as brock little
kayayay:

jacquie aiche on Flickr.

kayayay:

jacquie aiche on Flickr.

headless in encintas | 📷 @youstayglassy
had to “work” this morning with @rylandrubens1